Friday 15 August 2014

Roast Dinner... Need I Say More?

Next to tea, crumpets and colonial pillaging there isn't a greater British institution than the humble roast dinner. A menagerie of random garden ingredients paired with a simply roasted bird, doused in gravy and accompanied by crispy, doughy yorkshire puddings.

If I say "Sunday", what do you think of?

Actually, when you put it like that, what's all the fuss about?
For starters there isn't even a set checklist for what goes into a roast dinner; it's a collection of things, not a recipe. I'm sure there'd be a wave of tutting and groaning if I said my version has cabbage in it, possibly even a swoon on discovering the mash has butter AND cheese. Does one have roasts as well? Brussel sprouts? Bread sauce? Whatever way the dish is performed you'll be condoned and condemned.

Secondly it doesn't have much culinary merit. Sure, you have to cut the vegetables and the mash takes a bit of legwork (or should that be armwork?) but otherwise it's boiled greens and a bird left in a hot box for an hour. In comparison to the national dishes of other countries, such as France's coq au vin, it's hardly accomplished or difficult; anyone could make it. It reminds me of an anecdote from my offices when a coworker asked another one, who had lived in Japan for many years, whether you could get roast chicken there.

But perhaps I'm being a bit harsh; I've had many in my life and they were all delicious (90% of those were cooked by my father though, who is basically my personal Michel Roux Jr). In my opinion there are several essential components to a perfect roast dinner:

  • Smooth, lump-free mash with a high butter-to-potato ratio. But not too smooth; I don't want a french-style puree of spud on my plate
  • Gravy that must be made with the roasting juices of the bird
  • Crispy chicken skin. All of it. On my plate
  • Yorkshire puddings. Obviously
Provided it's made to these parameters, it can't go wrong. Unless, of course, you have different parameters. Which you most certainly will.

Bugger. Back to square one.

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