Sunday 28 September 2014

First For Everything: #6 Chicken Livers

I've never tried any form of offal before and I had it on good authority from a reputable source (my Dad) that, as far as animal organs go, chicken livers were the gateway food. So I decided to try some. I've wanted to try some of the more unusual cuts of meat for a while now for two reasons: one, as a general exploration of my palette and two, to see if I could make myself a tasty and cheap new friend.

I prepared the livers very simply; tossed in a mixture of flour, cayenne pepper, black pepper and salt then shallow fried for about 5 mins.

They look unappetising now but just wait until I am done with them
Once cooked (they should, I'm told, still be pink in the middle) I stuffed them into a freshly baked baguette that had been slathered in the finest butter I could find in my fridge.

An ominous shadow was cast to initiate the proceedings
One thing I should point out is that every organ-eater on the planet will insist, nay, grab your skull and shake it violently whilst chanting that you should always get the freshest, most organic-est produce you can find or forsake your soul.

I didn't get the freshest, most organic-est livers I could find.

Despite countless warning from chefs telling me that offal must be fresh and from a good source I bought a frozen variety and allowed it to defrost. Let me start by saying this isn't a terrible way to do it but the first thing you will taste, in any organ, is what the organ does and what the animal ate. Since my livers were from a cheap chicken who met a chilly end I was greeted with a mealy, mineral flavour that told me this chicken didn't have a great life. I think this is what might trip most people up when it comes to offal and convince them never to try it again.

However, looking past my mistake, you find a delicate slice of meat with properties you didn't know chicken could have. There is a deep, marrow flavour that tells you it's chicken but vamped up about ten degrees; it actually starts to go beyond the dark meat and move into red meat territory. There is a slight mineral quality, but it actual finishes more like a vegetable in terms of flavour and certainly doesn't end up being bloody (which I think is what puts most people off). As well as that is has a texture akin to coarse pate.

All in all you're left with a chicken, beef, mince, pate hybrid with a deep meaty finish that is singular. Whilst it was good the way I did it I think it would benefit from the Kentucky method; deep fried in southern flavours. I also think it would pair well with a berry, such as a cherry conserve.

Go try it yourself, see what you think. But remember, these things are cheap anyway, but try not to go for the lowest bidder. Buy some nice, organic chicken livers and take a culinary journey. Otherwise you might be put off for life and miss out on a whole delicious subsection of flesh.

I could have worded that better...

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